Brooklyn Community Gardeners

WATER SOLUTIONS

RAINWATER HARVESTING

From: "Lenny Librizzi"
To:
Subject: [cg] article on rainwater harvesting in community gardens
Date: Thursday, June 01, 2006 10:08 AM

Gotham Gazette -
http://www.gothamgazette.com/article/environment/20060531/7/1871

Harvesting the Rain
by Sam Williams
31 May 2006

In 2002, when a severe decline in winter snow and spring rainfall forced
the city to declare a drought emergency, gardeners throughout New York
City faced a new twist on an age-old dilemma.

Unable to tap city fire hydrants -- the traditional irrigation source for
community gardens -- garden managers looked to the skies for respite.
Taking a cue from early farmers, they gathered as many jars, barrels and
cisterns as they could find and set them out to capture and store a
portion of every summer downpour that passed over the city. By the end of
the year, at least seven gardens had created elaborate rainwater
harvesting systems channeling water from neighboring rooftops and
downspouts to 55-gallon drums and underground cisterns.

Four years later, the pressure to capture each precious drop of water may
not be as high, but the rainwater harvesting continues. A loose-knit
coalition of environmental groups calling itself Water Resources Group has
helped community gardeners install water retention systems in 25 local
gardens. The group has even secured a $45,000 grant from the Environmental
Protection Agency to finance systems in at least four community gardens,
starting with the Bedford Avenue Block Association Garden in Brooklyn near
the corner of Bedford and De Kalb avenues.

Some of the larger sites use 1,000 gallon tanks, says project coordinator
Lenny Librizzi of the Council on the Environment of New York City, a group
member. But others use 55-gallon olive barrels donated by a Queens olive
distributor.

As assistant director of the Council on the Environment's open space
greening project, Librizzi sees rainwater collection as an easy way to
fulfill that project's agenda to expand and enhance community gardens. For
now, most community gardens rely on free city water from fire hydrants.
This makes the gardens beholden to the whims of a city government that,
for at least the last 10 years, has taken note of the value of the land
underlying most community gardens and considered putting the acreage to
more financially profitable use. For security's sake, many of the green
spaces would prefer to have their own back-up water supply, free of city
control.

But there are additional environmental benefits. Last year's grant from
the Environmental Protection Agency, for example, came about because the
group was able to show that recycling rainwater reduces demand on the
city's storm sewers and so can help cut water pollution. Although the city
is overhauling its aging combined sewer overflow system, many
neighborhoods still send storm water runoff and household waste into the
same sewers. Catching rainwater reduces the demand on the sewers, giving
city pumps in these neighborhoods more time to work before the sewers
reach the overflow stage and send untreated sewage into local waterways.

It's a win-win for the environment and for gardeners, says Robin Simmen,
manager of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's GreenBridge horticulture program.
bFirst of all, rainwater is better for plants than chlorinated tap water
so you'll get bigger, healthier plants. Also, by harvesting rainwater, we
reduce the amount of storm water that we are currently flooding into our
sewer system.

Or as Librizzi puts it, "In collecting rainwater, we're not only making
the city greener, we're making it bluer.

Granted, it takes more than a few dozen community gardens to put a dent in
the city's storm water runoff problem. The Water Resources Group estimates
that its 25-garden network currently captures a little more than 250,000
gallons of rainwater annually. Compare that to the average family's use of
an estimated 100,000 gallons a year and it's hard to resist the punning
drop-in-a-bucket metaphor.

But rainwater harvesting can also produce a change in the way New Yorkers
think about water. Once New Yorkers stop seeing water as something they
can take for granted, they start appreciating what it truly is: a fickle
resource that takes time to capture.

We happen to be kind of lucky in that we just turn on the tap and have
all the fresh water we want, but that may not always be the case,
Librizzi says. The educational aspect is a big part of this.

Just as community gardens have taken the lead in bringing nationwide
issues such as open space preservation and solid waste composting into the
five boroughs, so too has the movement played a leadership role in a city
where many residents already grasp the common-sense value of rainwater
recycling but don't see how to make it work in a heavily urbanized
environment.

In a way we're reinventing the wheel, Simmen says. bMany of the
immigrant cultures in our city come from places where rainwater harvesting
is a way of life. People who come from the Caribbean -- there's no
groundwater supply there, every drop of water you use for irrigation comes
from the sky, and people know to catch and store the water when it rains.

To further that education, numerous websites offer set up and safe storage
tips to the aspiring rainfall harvester. For example, the site for Tree
People, a Los Angeles tree-planting group, offers an interactive
application to help calculate proper cistern size depending on the size of
the collecting rooftop and the expected rate of rainfall. A University of
Florida Extension site, meanwhile, provides a how-to guide for anyone
looking to hook up a simple, self-containing 55-gallon rain barrel system
to an existing gutter or downspout.

Designing a self-contained system is important. Not only does rainwater
evaporate when left uncovered, it also can be a magnet for mosquitoes,
rodents and other disease-bearing pests. Finally, there are the issues of
drowning risk and potability. Like a backyard pool, a good rainwater
collection source should we well marked and well-guarded, and it should be
abundantly clear to passersby that the water that just flowed in off
somebody's rooftop is for plant use only.

bRainwater is generally free of harmful materials and in most cases
chemicals, but can be adversely affected by air pollutants and/or
contaminated by animals in the catchment area, warns the rainwater
harvesting website Harvest H20.

There are various methods to prevent contamination. Jonah Braverman, an
urban agricultural coordinator with East New York Farms, says his group
uses a bfirst flush system. This involves a plugged, 10-gallon PVC
downspout directly adjacent to the collection source - the gutters of a
nearby house. Once the downspout fills completely, remaining water is
automatically diverted to the main downspout, which flows directly to a
500-gallon tank. After the rainstorm, garden volunteers, remove the plug
and dispose of the first few gallons of water, and with it, whatever early
sediment came washing in off the rooftop. Most research has found that
filtering the first 10 gallons b as the first flush system does b is
enough bto protect yourself from bird excrement and other pollutants
Braverman says.

The collection system also includes a direct line to the city sewer, so
that volunteers can shut off and drain the system during the winter when
freezing might shatter the permanently filled water lines. So far, the
only lingering concern with the three year-old irrigation system is water
pressure. To address that, the group is planning to purchase a
solar-powered pump. We will also be hooking the system up to a second
roof, he says.

Looking down the road, rainwater collection enthusiasts sees opportunities
to expand the Water Resources Group's efforts to private lots and
facilities other than community gardens. In early June members of the
Water Resources Group along with members of the City Council's Committee
on Environmental Protection will visit Philadelphia where Philadelphia
Green, a project funded by the Philadelphia Horticultural Society, has
been working on pilot projects involving permeable paving materials,
including asphalt. Such projects, if successful, could dramatically
increase the percentage of rainwater captured and minimize storm runoff
from parking lots and streets. The newly permeable surfaces can then be
planted with trees and other plants, making them cooler and more
attractive b without consuming additional drinking water.

In a sense such projects hark back to an earlier era. Simmen notes that
that the lots of many Brooklyn brownstones still contain the buried
backyard cisterns local residents once used to store rainwater during the
dry months. Since the early 20th century, New York has one of the few
cities that doesn't exist next to or on top of its water supply, Simmen
says. As a result, many of us haven't learned the importance of protecting
the local waterways from pollution, something we might have learned
growing up in another city. It's something that we had here and it's
something that we've lost.

--
Council on the Environment of New York City (CENYC)
51 Chambers Street room 228
New York, New York 10007
www.cenyc.org
212-788-7927 phone
212-788-7913 fax
llibrzzi@cenyc.org

DROUGHT GARDENING

Brooklyn Queens Land Trust
Gardening in Drought


Home & Garden
Plant problems

Symptoms vary between different types of plants, depending on the severity
of the drought.

Generally, the main symptom of drought is the leaves wilt and become limp
as they are no longer swollen with water. They nearly always turn yellow;
sometimes they turn brown at the edges or drop off.

A lack of water can cause stunted growth, flowers to shrivel up and fruit
to drop. In extreme cases plants shrivel up and die.

Drought symptoms are noticeable at the top of the plant and they work
their way down as the plant becomes depleted of moisture. Or signs first
appear on the outside of the plant and work their way in towards the
centre of the stems.

Test soil by placing your finger in it. If it feels moist then don't
water. Confusingly, many symptoms of drought are similar to symptoms of
overwatering, which can also kill plants.

Soil, compost and mulching
Add organic matter to soil when planting. Improving the soil's structure
helps to retain moisture.
Use a mulch on flowerbeds and around shrubs and trees in spring. This
stops moisture from evaporating during dry spells.
Add a mulch, such as gravel, to the surface of hanging baskets to trap
moisture.
Add water-retentive gel to compost in hanging baskets and containers, or
use compost with water retentive gel already in it.
Learn more about using mulches.
Lawn care
Lawns are fairly drought resistant compared with other plants, but they
can become yellowy-brown, limp and eventually bald if the following
precautions are not taken:

cut the lawn less frequently than usual
raise the height of lawnmower blades
use a sprinkler on the lawn in the evening. Water lawns thoroughly to
saturate the top 10cm to 15cm (4in to 6in) of soil. Check there is no hose
pipe ban in the area. Avoid walking on the lawn if possible
scarify the lawn in autumn. A build-up of thatch in the summer could
prevent water from penetrating the lawn
aerate soil with a fork to help water penetrate the roots of the grass
follow our step-by-step guide to autumn lawn care
Greenhouse problems
Greenhouses are useful for protecting tender plants and providing extra
heat. However, the glass magnifies the sun's rays, which makes plants
vulnerable to being scorched by the sun. It also means that soil dries out
much quicker than if the plants were outside.
Flexible net shades can be used with varying degrees of success to protect
plants from the direct glare of sunlight. Alternatively, glass shade paint
can be applied to windows.
Open windows, use ventilation or even leave the door open during the day.
Remember to close them at night if a frost or cold night is forecast.
Watering
Using the right amount of water is the most important aspect of a plant's
survival in dry conditions. Bear in mind that it is not just hot weather
that can cause soil to dry out, windy weather can also have a detrimental
effect.
In dry conditions, water container plants at least once a day. Water in
the evening to reduce evaporation.
However, if a plant looks like it is wilting and suffering from drought in
the day, then water it immediately.
Try to avoid watering plant leaves in direct sunlight because they can
become scorched, particularly when they have hairy foliage.
Install a water butt in the garden to conserve water.
If you have an automatic watering system with a timer, adjust it to take
hot and dry weather into account.
Move container plants into the shade if you are going away on holiday and
no one is watering your plants.
Plants for dry conditions
If you have a dry garden, choose plants that are suited to dry conditions.
These often have grey or silver foliage, such as lavender and santolina,
or thin foliage to reduce water loss through the leaves.

Be safe in the sun
It's not only plants that can start to flag in dry weather, if you are
working in the garden in hot conditions, it is important to take the
following precautions:

wear suntan lotion or sun block
work in the shade if possible, out of direct sunlight
wear a hat or headscarf
take regular breaks and have frequent non-alcoholic drinks




Additional gardening resources can be found at UMassTurf.org/gardener.html


GARDENING DURING DROUGHT

As the population and the amount of water used per person continues to
increase and with a continuing deficiency in precipitation, the problem
will become more acute. Many towns have already imposed restrictions on
outdoor water use. Citizens should be aware of the seriousness of the
situation and strive to conserve water at every opportunity. Here are some
suggestions for making the most efficient use of limited water supply.

GENERAL PRACTICES TO CONSERVE WATER AND PREPARE FOR DROUGHT

Select drought resistant plants and varieties.
Work organic matter into the soil.
Mulch plants.
Capture water in rain barrels and cisterns, cover top with mosquito
netting.
Use gray water.
During a water ban, don't prune, fertilize or apply pesticides.
Xeriscape to conserve water.

LAWNS
Mowing - Set the cutting height on lawn mowers to at least 2 inches. Grass
cut at 2-3 inches will develop deeper root systems and will be better able
to tolerate drought.
Fertilizing - avoid early spring high nitrogen fertilizer; use turf
fertilizer with a high percentage of slow release nitrogen.
Watering - Apply one inch of water per week in one application to allow
for deep (4-6 inches) penetration of water into soil. See: Efficient
Watering of Turf.
Leave grass clippings; clippings act as mulch and recycle nutrients.
Allow grass to go dormant if water is not available; the turf will green
up when conditions improve.
New lawn construction and repairs: fall (late August - early September)
seeding only and include drought resistant types such as fine fescues in
the grass seed mix.

TREES AND SHRUBS

Once established, trees and shrubs generally need less water than other
plantings.
Avoid heavy feedings; large leaves means more transpiration.
Water slowly, deeply and infrequently such as 10-14 day intervals.
Mulch plants - Add a 2-3 inch deep layer of bark mulch. Do not put mulch
against trunk.
Apply antitranspirants, read lable before applying.
Apply water deeply to newly planted trees and shrubs, water should
penetrate to a soil depth of 10-12 inches. Make additional applications at
one week intervals if no rainfall occurs.
Use drought resistant plants ; burlap or lath wind break and shading.

FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES
Select drought tolerant types for drier sites.
Shelter with wind breaks or fabric until roots arewell established.
Water deeply but infrequently.
Wide spacing to reduce competition for moisture.
Mulch plants.
Use trickle or drip irrigation systems.

ALLOCATION OF WATER

When water is limited, give priority to the following plants since they
have the greatest need for water:
Newly planted trees and shrubs.
Newly seeded lawns or lawn areas that have been overseeded or repaired.
Trees and shrubs on sandy or shallow soils, and on sites exposed to sun
and wind.
Vegetables; apply water when crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers etc) are
flowering.

Drought-Tolerant Plants
Deciduous Trees

· Amelanchier arborea, Shadbush, Downy serviceberry
· Carpinus caroliniana, American hornbeam
· Carya ovata, Shagbark hickory
· Cotinus obovatus, American smoketree
· Crataegus species, Hawthorns
· Diospyros virginiana, American persimmon
· Halesia carolina, Carolina silverbells
· Liquidambar styraciflua, American sweetgum
· Prunus x cistena, Purpleleaf sand cherry
· Quercus species, Oaks (many species)
· Sassafras albidum, Sassafras
· Tilia species, Lindens

Shrubs

· Aesculus parviflora, Bottlebrush buckeye
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Aronia arbutifolia, A. melanocarpa, Chokeberries
· Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Bluemist', Clandon bluebeard
· Ceanothus americanus, New Jersey tea
· Chaenomeles x superba, Flowering quince
· Cornus racemosa, Gray dogwood
· Corylus americana, American filbert
· Coylus avellana 'Contorta', Harry Lauder's walking stick
· Cotinus coggygria, Smokebush
· Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', Wallflower
· Hamamelis virginiana, Witch-hazel
· Hydrangea paniculata, Panicle hydrangea
· Itea virginica, Virginia sweetspire
· Lavandula angustifolia, Lavender
· Lespedeza thunbergii, Bush clover
· Myrica pensylvanica, Bayberry
· Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage
· Philadelphus coronarius, Mockorange
· Prunus maritima, Beach plum
· Rhus copallinum, Shining sumac
· Rosa rugosa, R. glauca, R. nitida, R. carolina, and other species,
Species roses
· Santolina chamaecyparissus, Lavender cotton
· Symphoricarpos albus, Common snowberry
· Symphoricarpos orbiculatus, Coralberry
· Syringa species, Lilacs
· Vaccinium angustifolium, Lowbush blueberry
· Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood
· Viburnum lentago, Nannyberry

Needled Evergreens

· Abies concolor, White fir
· Cephalotaxus harringtonia, Japanese plum yew
· Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sawara false cypress
· Juniperus species, Junipers (most species)
· Picea species, Spruces (most species)
· Pinus species, Pines (most species)
· Taxus species, Yews (most species)
· Thuja occidentalis, Eastern arborvitae

Broadleaf Evergreens

· Ilex crenata, Japanese holly
· Ilex glabra, Inkberry
· Ilex x meserveae, Meserve holly
· Ilex opaca, American holly
· Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon grape

Vines

· Aristolochia macrophylla, Dutchman's pipe
· Bougainvillea species, Bougainvilleas
· Campsis radicans, Trumpet creeper
· Clematis montana, Anemone clematis
· Clematis terniflora, Sweet autumn clematis
· Ipomoea tricolor, Morning glory
· Lonicera sempervirens, Trumpet honeysuckle
· Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Virginia creeper
· Plumbago auriculata, Cape leadwort
· Wisteria frutescens, American wisteria

Groundcovers

· Ajuga reptans, Carpet bugleweed
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Bergenia cordifolia, Bergenia
· Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-in-summer
· Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Ceratostigma
· Epimedium species, Barrenworts
· Juniperus horizontalis, Creeping juniper
· Liriope spicata, Lilyturf
· Pachysandra procumbens, Allegheny spurge
Paxistima canbyi, Cliff green
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Thymus species, Thymes

Perennials

· Achillea cultivars, Garden yarrow
· Agastache foeniculum, Anise hyssop
· Agastache cultivars, Hyssops
· Amsonia hubrichtii, Bluestar
· Anemone species, Anemones
· Arabis procurrens, A. alpina, Rock cresses
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly weed
· Aster species, Asters (many species)
· Baptisia australis, False blue indigo
· Chrysanthemum cultivars, Chrysanthemums
· Coreopsis species, Coreopsis
· Dianthus species, Pinks
· Diascia rigescens, D. barberae cultivars, Diascias
· Dicentra chrysantha, Golden eardrops
· Echinacea purpurea, Purple coneflower
· Echinops bannaticus, Globe thistle
· Eryngium bourgatii, Sea holly
· Euphorbia species, Euphorbias
· Gaillardia species, Blanket flowers
· Gaura lindheimeri, Gaura
· Hemerocallis species, Daylilies
· Iberis sempervirens, Candytuft
· Kniphofia cultivars, Torch flowers, red-hot pokers
· Liatris species, Blazing stars, gayfeathers
· Lychnis coronaria, Rose campion
· Nepeta species, Catmints
· Oenothera species, Evening primroses
· Origanum laevigatum, Ornamental and culinary oregano cultivars
· Papaver species, Poppies
· Penstemon species, Penstemons, beard-tongues
· Phlox subulata, Woodland phlox
· Physostegia virginiana, Obedient plant
· Pulsatilla vulgaris, Pasque flower
· Rudbeckia species, Black-eyed Susans
· Salvia species, Sages
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Sempervivuns tectorum, Hens and chicks
· Sisyrnchium angustifolium, Blue-eyed grass
· Stachys byzantina, Lamb's ear
· Thymus species, Thymes
· Verbascum bombyciferum and V. chaixii cultivars, Mulleins
· Yucca species, Yuccas

Bulbs and Tuberous Plants

· Agapanthus cultivars, Agapanthus
· Allium caeruleum, A. sphaerocephalum, and other allium cultivars,
Ornamental onions
· Crocosmia cultivars, Montbretias
· Fritillaria species, Fritillaries
· Nectaroscordum siculum, Nectaroscordum
· Tulbaghia violacea, Society garlic

Annuals

· Calendula officinalis, Pot marigold
· Capsicum species, Ornamental peppers
· Celosia cristata, Cockscomb
· Eschscholzia californica, California poppy
· Felicia amelloides, Blue marguerite
· Gazania rigens, Gazania
· Helianthus annuus, Sunflower
· Helichrysum bracteatum, Strawflower
· Nigella damascena, Love-in-a-mist
· Papaver cultivars, Annual poppies
· Salvia species, Annual salvias
· Zinnia angustifolia, Zinnia

Ornamental Grasses

· Calamagrostis x acutiflora, Feather reed grass
· Festuca glauca, Blue fescue
· Helicotrichon sempervirens, Blue oat grass
· Panicum virgatum, Switch grass
· Pennisetum species, Fountain grasses
· Schizachyrium scoparium, Little bluestem
· Sorgastrum nutans, Indian grass

----------------------------------------Brooklyn Botanic Garden Director
of Publishing Janet Marinelli is editor of BBG's renowned series of
quarterly gardening handbooks and the author of Your Natural Home and The
Naturally Elegant Home. Janet is a champion of the gardener's role in the
preservation of the planet, a philosophy that informs her P&G News column,
"Down to Earth." It's a philosophy that also serves as the bedrock for her
latest book, Stalking the Wild Amaranth: Gardening in the Age of
Extinction. In Stalking the Wild Amaranth, Janet tells of her quest for a
landscape art that protects disappearing species, both flora and fauna.
It's a gardening journey marked by humor—ecologically sensitive gardening
needn't be a dreary affair, Janet insists. "We can do our part," she says,
"and still have flair and fun."

Niall Dunne is associate editior of Plants & Gardens News.

Drought-Resistant Plants for Pots
by Ellen Zachos

In recent years, communities all over the United States have experienced
some form of drought, and in response, many have restricted the use of
water for gardening. As environmentally conscious gardeners, we need to
find ways to create gardens—including container gardens—that require
little, if any, supplemental watering.

In 1981, the Association of Landscapers and Contractors of Colorado coined
the term "xeriscape." "Xeros" is Greek for dry and "scape" comes from the
Anglo-Saxon "schap," meaning view. Xeriscape gardening promotes water
conservation through inventive landscaping. It is water-efficient, but by
no means restricted to stark collections of rocks and cacti.
Drought-resistant container gardens need not sacrifice a variety of form
and color. There's an additional benefit in planting a drought-tolerant
potted garden—you will spend less time maintaining and more time enjoying
it.


Fuzzy leaves are one sign that a plant is drought-tolerant.
There are certain characteristics that indicate drought tolerance, so keep
these in mind when choosing xerophytic plants for containers: Silvery
foliage and hairy or fuzzy leaves reflect sunlight, thus reducing water
loss via transpiration, the normal loss of water vapor from a plant's
leaves. Leaf hairs also act as a physical barrier to transpiration by
reducing air movement over the surface of the leaf. Succulent plant parts,
like the leaves of rose moss (Portulaca species), store water for drier
times. A thick cuticle (a waxy coating secreted by the plant's epidermal
cells) slows the loss of water through the leaf surface. The leaves of
ivy-leaved geranium, Pelargonium peltatum, have just such a cuticle. A
taproot is another excellent water storage device. Plants with taproots,
like butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), store enough water to get
through periods of drought.

Drought-tolerant Plants

There are so many xerophytic plants that it would be impossible to include
them all here. A good rule of thumb is to choose plants that are native to
your area; a number of the non-native ornamentals recommended as
drought-tolerant candidates for the garden have become invasive,
threatening North American habitats and their associated plants and
animals. Plants known to be invasive should not be used in regions where
they have been noted as such or other regions with similar climates and
growing conditions.

Plants grown in containers are more exposed to the elements than their
peers growing in the ground, and therefore should be treated as less
hardy. The hardiness listing provided for each perennial gives the zone to
which that plant is reliably hardy in a container setting, which is
generally two zones warmer than its USDA listing. For example, sea holly
(Eryngium bourgatii) is hardy to Zone 5 when it grows in the ground and
container-hardy to Zone 7.

Herbaceous Perennials

Sea Holly Eryngium bourgatii—This plant has a wonderful structure and is
exceedingly tough. Its leaves are stiff and marked by white veins that
complement the spiny, silvery white flower bracts. It is container-hardy
to Zone 7 and grows to 24 inches tall.

Perennial Flax Linum perenne—The flowers of perennial flax are a deep,
clear, true blue. They open in the heat of day and close again by evening.
This easy-to-grow plant does best in full sun and well-drained soil. It's
container-hardy to Zone 7 and reaches 1 to 2 feet in height.

Coneflower Echinacea purpurea—This drought-tolerant North American native
grows best in sandy soil and full sun. The white cultivars are especially
attractive and grow to 24 inches tall. This makes them somewhat shorter
than their more common pink cousin. All Echinacea bloom from July through
August and are container-hardy to Zone 6.

Globe Thistle Echinops bannaticus—This thistle has long-lasting, pale
blue, globe-shaped flowers that make excellent cut and dried displays.
Foliage and growth habit are also very attractive. Globe thistle is
container-hardy to Zone 6 and reaches 2 to 3 feet tall (depending on the
cultivar).

Butterfly Weed Asclepias tuberosa—Its taproot makes this North American
native an especially drought-tolerant choice, and its flowers attract bees
and butterflies to your garden in abundance. Cultivars range from 1 to 3
feet in height, with flowers available in yellow, orange, vermilion, or
white. It is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Annuals


Butterflies love lantana, which is grown as an annual in cooler regions.
Individual flowers change their color to yellow once they have been
pollinated.
Lantana Lantana species—Available in numerous colors, including yellow,
orange, red, white, pink, and lavender, lantana—or shrub verbena, as it is
often called—comes in both upright (Lantana camara) and weeping forms
(Lantana montevidensis). The leaves have a spicy fragrance, and the plant
will flower all summer long if conscientiously dead-headed. Seed heads are
also attractive and mature to a shiny, blue-black fruit. (In frost-free
areas, Lantana camara is hardy and will grow into a shrub. However, it is
known to be invasive in Florida and Hawaii. Gardeners in these states
should refrain from growing this plant.)

Sunflower Helianthus annuus—The many varieties range from 2 to 12 feet
tall and offer flowers in white, yellow, orange, or red. Some cultivars
have huge, single flowerheads, while others have several flowers per
stalk. All make excellent accent plants and add height to your containers.


Blue Marguerite Felicia amelloides—This marguerite has lovely blue petals
surrounding a yellow center. It ranges from 1 to 3 feet tall and grows
best in full sun. This annual flowers best in cool weather, so use it for
early spring bloom, then cut it back for another round of flowers in fall.


Zinnia Zinnia angustifolia—Available with white or orange flowers, both
with yellow-orange centers, Mexican zinnia grows 8 to 12 inches tall and
is quite drought-tolerant. The plant flowers profusely, and its leaves are
an attractive gray-green with a linear shape. It is sometimes sold as
Zinnia linearis.

Ivy-leaved Geranium Pelargonium peltatum—Dark green, shiny leaves and a
trailing growth habit make this plant particularly valuable for container
culture. Its blooms are not as large as those on some other geraniums but
the color and shape are lovely, and its foliage helps weave together the
diverse contents of your container.

Annual and Perennial Vines

Bougainvillea—Nothing beats the brilliance of Bougainvillea. An annual in
the North, it's a fast grower, with solid green- or white-variegated
leaves and colorful petal-like bracts (not flowers) that can be magenta,
white, yellow, orange, or pink. Cut it back and bring it indoors for the
winter if you have a sunny window.

Trumpet Creeper Campsis radicans—An excellent choice to cover a trellis or
arbor, this North American native vine grows quickly and gives good
coverage within two or three years. Flowers can be shades of orange or
yellow, depending on the cultivar, and the vine blooms for several months
in summer. It is container-hardy to Zone 7.

Morning Glory Ipomoea tricolor—The classic "morning glory blue" is a true
symbol of summer, but a rich array of purples, pinks, and stripes are also
worth growing. Ipomoea grows quickly and prefers sandy, poor soil. It can
easily cover a full-sized tree or two-story house in a single growing
season.

Sweet Autumn Clematis Clematis terniflora—This vine delivers a blast of
bloom just when you need it: in autumn, when thoughts of winter creep into
every gardener's brain. Throughout the summer, its attractive, three-lobed
leaves nicely cover an arbor or fence. In early fall, the profusion of
white blooms is the finishing touch. The vine, often sold as Clematis
paniculata, is container-hardy to Zone 7.

Cape Leadwort Plumbago auriculata—The flowers of cape leadwort are usually
a clear pale blue, although a white cultivar is also available.
Dead-heading helps guarantee bloom throughout the summer season. This vine
is tender north of Zone 9, but just like Bougainvillea, it can be cut back
in fall and overwintered indoors.

Bulbs

Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis—It is impossible to overpraise this earliest
harbinger of spring. Snowdrop makes a fragrant cut flower, although its
scent isn't discernible in the cold winter air. On a warm day, or indoors,
its perfume is lovely and delicate. Snowdrops bloom in late winter, and
the foliage disappears when the plant goes dormant in mid-spring.


Tulipa tarda is a reliable perennial bulb.
Bearded Iris Iris germanica—The many bearded iris hybrids offer a huge
range of color choices, including purples, whites, golds, pinks, and reds.
Flowers are intricate and showy, and the upright foliage is an excellent
accent for the container garden, even when the plant is not in bloom.

Tulipa Tarda—While some tulips can be temperamental, Tulipa tarda is an
outstanding, reliable, hardy, drought-tolerant perennial. It blooms in
April, and its brilliant, two-toned flowers are real showstoppers.

Onion Allium species—There are many alliums to choose from, all of them
quite drought-tolerant. Heights range from 6 inches to 3 feet, and umbels
come in many shades of purple and blue as well as yellow and pink.

Fall-blooming Crocus Crocus speciosus—This crocus blooms without foliage.
Its flowers are considerably larger than those of the spring-blooming
crocus, and it grows well in sandy, well-drained soils. Full sun is best,
but some shade is fine.

Shrubs

Bluemist Spirea Caryopteris x clandonensis—This is an outstanding shrub
with blue flowers in August and September. It blooms best in full sun and
a well-drained soil, and is container-hardy to Zone 7. Its attractive
gray-green foliage has a spicy scent. Treat this shrub, also called
bluebeard and false blue spirea, as a perennial and cut it back to the
ground in late winter; flowers are borne on new growth.

Cranberry Cotoneaster Cotoneaster apiculatus—This low-growing shrub has an
attractive, stiff branching pattern. Its small leaves are shiny and the
plant is covered with cranberry-red fruit. It is container-hardy to Zone 7
and its cascading growth habit is especially useful at the front of a
large container.

Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium—A lovely shrub with blue-green, spiky
leaflets, it is container-hardy to Zone 7 and can take some shade. Yellow
flowers are borne in spring, followed by grape-shaped (non-edible) fruit.
This evergreen shrub grows to approximately 3 feet tall.

Japanese Holly Ilex crenata—A small-leafed evergreen with black berries
borne on female plants, this holly is more drought-tolerant than most and
grows best in well-drained soils. It grows well in sun or shade and is
container-hardy to Zone 7.

Spirea Spiraea thunbergii—One of the earliest spring-flowering shrubs, it
has numerous white flowers. The foliage of this bushy plant turns a pretty
orange-yellow in fall. Prune it to keep it in shape. It is container-hardy
to Zone 6.

Small Trees

Purpleleaf Sand Cherry Prunus x cistena—The purple foliage makes this tree
an excellent and valuable accent plant. Grow it as a multi-stemmed shrub
or a small tree. It is container-hardy to Zone 4.

Apricot Prunus armeniaca—This attractive small tree has pretty pink
flowers in April or May, followed by edible fruit in July and August. This
apricot is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Colorado Bristlecone Pine Pinus aristata—The needles of this slow-growing
North American native evergreen have an attractive bluish cast. Its
picturesque growth habit is reminiscent of a trained bonsai and makes this
plant a natural focal point. It is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Downy Serviceberry Amelanchier arborea—This North American native has
several things to recommend it. Delicate, white flowers precede foliage in
very early spring and its gray bark is lovely year-round. This Amelanchier
is the most drought-tolerant of the genus, grows in sun or shade, and is
container-hardy to Zone 6.

Black-Haw Viburnum prunifolium—An incredibly tough North American native,
black-haw or plum-leaf viburnum, as it is also known, tolerates dry
conditions and will grow in partial shade or sun. White, flat-topped
flowers in May are followed by black fruit in September. This tree has
reddish purple fall color and is container-hardy to Zone 5.

Groundcovers

Carpet Bugleweed Ajuga reptans—This is an attractive groundcover all
summer long that comes in a wide variety of foliage colors (bronze,
purple, white, green). Lovely purple-blue flowers cover the plant in
spring. It grows quickly, spreading by stolons, and is container-hardy to
Zone 5.

Common Bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi—This North American native is a
slow grower but worth waiting for. It's container-hardy to Zone 5, and its
evergreen foliage takes on a pretty bronze tint in winter. Long-lasting
red berries follow pink, bell-shaped spring flowers.

Creeping Juniper Juniperus horizontalis—A tough North American native
whose prostrate growth habit is well suited to draping a container edge.
Container-hardy to Zone 5, its numerous cultivars offer varying shades of
evergreen foliage, including blue-green, gray-blue, and dark green. Blue
berries are an added bonus.

Cliff Green Paxistima canbyi—A North American native evergreen shrub with
a low growth habit that makes it a useful groundcover. It's
container-hardy to Zone 6 and will grow in sun or shade. Well-drained
sandy soil is best. Leaves are small and linear and turn bronze in fall.

Wooly Thyme Thymus pseudolanuginosus—The creeping growth habit of this
thyme is particularly useful in containers, allowing it to fill in the
gaps between neighboring plants. Its leaves are fuzzy, fragrant, and very
tough. This herb is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Ornamental Grasses

Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster' (syn.
'Stricta')—The botanical name is a mouthful, but worth learning to
pronounce. This grass has a narrow, upright growth habit, reaches 5 feet
in height, and needs full sun. It blooms in summer and its panicles are
persistent, adding winter interest to your container. It is
container-hardy to Zone 7.


Fountain grass, with fuzzy flower spikes.
Big Blue Stem Andropogon gerardii—This native North American grass once
covered the prairies. It grows to 4 to 6 feet tall in containers, and its
silvery blue foliage is truly beautiful. In fall, stems turn a striking
coppery color. This grass grows best in full sun and is container-hardy to
Zone 6.

Maiden Grass Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus' and zebra grass (M.
sinensis 'Zebrinus') are two cultivars of Miscanthus with a clumping habit
and a moderate growth rate. 'Gracillimus' reaches 5 to 6 feet tall and is
topped by showy flowers in October. 'Zebrinus' has horizontal yellow
stripes and reaches 7 feet tall. Both are hardy to Zone 7 and provide
excellent winter interest. Maiden grass is invasive in some areas
throughout the eastern U.S., from Florida to Texas, north to Massachusetts
and New York. People who live in areas where maiden grass has proven
problematic should refrain from growing it.

Tufted Fescue Festuca amethystina—A superb accent plant with beautiful
gray-blue foliage topped by tan panicles of flowers in late summer. One of
our smaller ornamental grasses, it grows to approximately 12 inches and
does very well in containers. It is container-hardy to Zone 6, frequently
evergreen, and can be cut back to the ground in early spring.

Fountain Grass Pennisetum setaceum—An annual grass in the north and well
worth growing for its long-lasting, beautiful, fuzzy flower spikes.
Cultivars with coppery red spikes and foliage are particularly useful as
accent plants. This grass grows to 24 to 36 inches tall, depending on the
cultivar.

Xeriscaping Tips for Container Gardeners
Container gardening presents its own set of challenges, among them more
stressful growing conditions: As it holds only a limited amount of soil, a
container offers limited room for roots to spread, dries out faster, and
has a higher soil temperature. The following tips are based on principles
formulated by the National Xeriscape Council, Inc., a non-profit
organization, which serves as an informational clearinghouse for people
interested in xeriscaping.

Plan Ahead: Consider where you're placing your containers. For example, a
spot in the sun can be 20° F. hotter than a nearby spot in the shade, so
put your most drought-tolerant plants in the most exposed part of the
garden. Trellises and arbors, as well as trees, create useful pockets of
shade, so take advantage of them. In addition, group only plants with
similar water requirements in the same container. By choosing plants with
similar requirements, you can reduce water waste and improve your plants'
health, since each will receive what it needs; no more, no less. If you
want to include a few water-lovers in your garden, select shade-tolerant
varieties, and place the container in the shade.

Select Appropriate Plants: Choose plants suited to your region and
microclimate. You've got some leeway here, because xeriscaping can mean
different things in different parts of the country, depending on average
temperature and rainfall. Start by looking at plants native to the drier
habitats in your area; these plants frequently thrive without supplemental
water.

Improve the Potting Mix: Use a potting mix that's quick-draining,
water-retentive, and nutrient-rich. Consider adding an inorganic soil
conditioner to your mix. Water-retaining polymers (hydrogels), for
example, hold several hundred times their weight in water and release it
gradually to the plants' roots; one teaspoon absorbs one quart of water.
Finally, mycorrhizal fungi improve the ability of a plant to take up water
and nutrients by working with the plant's root system. Packets of
mycorrhizal fungi (combined with hydrogels, soil conditioners, and
bio-stimulants) are available commercially and should be added to the soil
before planting.

Irrigate efficiently: If you use an irrigation system, minimize water
waste by applying the water exactly where it is needed. If possible, use
drip emitters to deliver water to each container in your potted garden;
drip irrigation systems use about 30 to 50 percent less water than
sprinkler systems. They are highly efficient, delivering water directly to
the roots of the plants, minimizing evaporation and run-off.

Use Mulch: A two- to three-inch layer of mulch covering the soil surface
will cool the soil and help it retain moisture. In fact, soil that's one
inch below a layer of mulch can be up to 10° F. cooler than unmulched soil
at the same depth. Mulch reduces weed growth and organic mulch improves
the fertility of the soil as it decomposes. It also prevents crusting of
the soil surface, allowing water to penetrate to the root zone. Finally,
the dark color and uneven surface of mulch limits reflectivity. Sand and
clay soils can be highly reflective and bounce heat and light up onto
plants. The fragmented surface of mulch reduces reflectivity and cools the
adjacent area. Shredded or chipped bark, compost, and cocoa hulls make
excellent mulches and will help you conserve water.

Maintain the Xeriscape: The initial soil preparation should be adequate
for at least the first growing season. Do not overfertilize your xeriscape
container garden, since this promotes weak growth that requires extra
water. Keep pruning to a minimum as it actually encourages growth. Rather
than pruning, research the growth habits of the plants you're interested
in and pick only those that are the right size for your space. Be a
vigilant weeder. Weeds compete with your plants for water and nutrients,
thus increasing the total amount of water the container requires.
________________________________________
Ellen Zachos is a Harvard graduate and received her Certificate in
Horticulture from The New York Botanical Garden. She specializes in
tropical plants and has restored several greenhouses in the New York City
area, which she now maintains for her clients. Her company, Acme Plant
Stuff, installs and maintains commercial and residential interior and
exterior gardens in New York City.





Water-Saving Strategies
Drought-Proofing Your Garden—Essential Water-Saving Strategies

Plants & Gardens News, Volume 17, Number 2 | Summer 2002

by Janet Marinelli and Niall Dunne

Severe to extreme drought conditions are affecting large portions of North
America, including the Atlantic Coast from Maine to Georgia, the Plains
states, and significant parts of the Southwest as well. New York City's
experience has been typical of many urban and suburban areas. On April 1,
the city declared a Stage 1 Drought Emergency, introducing numerous
restrictions on industrial, municipal, and domestic water use. Gotham's
gardeners are only allowed to water their lawns every other day for two
hours in the morning and the evening, and they can only water the rest of
their plants using hand-held watering cans or low-flow irrigation
equipment.


Don't be fooled by those days of plentiful rain in April and May, because
water reservoirs in much of the East are still well below normal capacity.
And there has been no easing of water restrictions. We still need an
abnormally high amount of rainfall for water supplies to get back on track
by next year.

A drought emergency is a time to take steps to substantially reduce water
use in the garden. It's also a good time to take stock of our gardening
practices and to consider how out of tune they are with normal
fluctuations in yearly rainfall and snowfall. Below are some tips on how
to conserve water while coaxing your plants through the current drought.
These are followed by longer-term solutions that will help make your
garden more compatible with natural precipitation patterns.

Drought Facts

First, a couple of basic questions: What's causing the current drought?
With icebergs the size of Rhode Island breaking off Antarctica, one might
be tempted to link the drought to human-influenced global warming. But
experts say it's premature to characterize what is probably a normal
fluctuation in the weather (the short-term state of the atmosphere) as a
climatological event (a long-term trend).

The earth's climate, of course, continuously changes without any help from
us, cycling through periods of warming and cooling. It has to do with
everything from fluctuations in solar activity to shifts in the planet's
orbital tilt. In other words, even if you left humanity out of the
picture, drought would be a regular occurrence.

What exactly is a drought? Climatologists have a list of different
definitions, reflecting the complexity of the phenomenon. Generally
speaking, it is a period of less-than-average rainfall. Predicting when a
drought will end, or when a new one will begin, is close to impossible.

"Basically each day is a new slate," says Mark Svoboda, a climatologist
with the National Drought Mitigation Center, an advisory institution based
at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. "The drought could be over soon, or
it could draw out for years."

Svoboda points out that "because drought is so unpredictable and hard to
read, and because it is a natural part of our climate cycle, we need to be
conserving water at all times, even when it seems to be in abundance."

Ten Short-Term Tips

Here are ten easy ways you can conserve water in your garden this summer
without harming your plants:

Water your plants early in the morning. Mornings are cool, and water
doesn't evaporate as readily as it does in the heat of the afternoon.
Evenings are cool too, but water sitting on leaves overnight can cause
fungal diseases.

Water less frequently but deeply. Frequent, shallow waterings lead to
weak, shallow-rooted plants. Less frequent, thorough waterings encourage
roots to grow deep, where the soil stays moist longer.

Water the soil, not the plants. Use a watering can, soaker hoses, drip
irrigation, or other water-conserving irrigation techniques that saturate
the soil while leaving the foliage dry.

Mulch your plantings. A two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch such as
shredded leaves or bark or compost slows evaporation by shading the soil,
slows water runoff, and as a bonus, enriches the soil as it breaks down.

Don't prune, fertilize, or apply pesticides during a drought emergency.
All of these would put additional stress on your plants.

Put off major planting projects until water is more plentiful. All newly
established plants require a lot of irrigation. It's best to delay
planting trees, shrubs, and large herbaceous borders until the drought is
over.

Choose drought-tolerant plants for pots and for filling in existing
plantings. Certain characteristics indicate that a plant has low water
requirements: Plants with silvery, hairy, or fuzzy leaves (such as woolly
thyme, Thymus pseudolanuginosus), succulent leaves (such as rose moss,
Portulaca species), or leaves with a waxy coating (such as ivy-leaved
geranium, Pelargonium peltatum) are good choices. Plants with long
taproots, such as butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), are good choices as
well. See "Drought-Tolerant Plants," page 13, for more recommendations.

Improve potting mixes. For your container plants, consider incorporating
hydrogels into the potting soil. These water-retaining polymers hold
several hundred times their weight in water and release it gradually to
the plants' roots. Be careful not to add more than the recommended
amount—too much of a good thing and your plants will be pushed out of
their containers by the expanding crystals. Presoaking hydrogels until
they are fully expanded makes them easier to incorporate with the potting
soil in the proper ratio.

Cut down on mowing, fertilizing, and watering, and let your lawn go
dormant. Mowing causes water loss. Mow during the coolest part of the day,
and leave the clippings, which return small but valuable amounts of
moisture to your lawn. Raise the mowing height, because taller grass
shades the soil, reducing water loss; the University of Massachusetts
Extension recommends settings of two to three inches. Most turfgrasses are
adapted to summer drought. They turn a nice buff brown color as they go
dormant, sending their water reserves down to the roots for safekeeping.
Given a bare minimum of water, your lawn will green up again in fall when
temperatures cool.

Consider collecting and recycling water. Depending on where you live, you
may be able to connect your downspouts to rain barrels to collect roof
runoff. When water used for boiling pasta and vegetables cools, use it to
water your plants. Use of other types of "gray water," such as that from
showers, baths, washing machines, and dishwashers, is regulated by some
municipalities, and the detergents and other chemicals in the water can be
harmful to some plants.

Long-Term Solutions

The following additional steps will make your garden much less vulnerable
to future droughts as they preserve supplies of fresh water. It's best to
save these projects until the current drought is over.

Reduce the size of your lawn. The typical lawn requires regular irrigation
and care to maintain its aesthetic appeal. Consider widening your borders
and planting beds, and replacing thirsty turfgrass with water-thrifty
trees and shrubs. Once established, most trees and shrubs require less
water than herbaceous plants. Fill in with drought-tolerant perennials,
annuals, bulbs, and groundcovers. See the box below for specific
recommendations.

Add organic matter to the soil as you plant. Compost and other organic
matter increase the soil's ability to retain moisure.

Switch to low-maintenance grasses in remaining lawn areas. One very
attractive alternative is buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides), a
fine-leafed, soft-textured species indigenous to the Great Plains. Because
it is adapted to the periodic and prolonged droughts characteristic of
that region, it needs minimal water once established and no fertilizer.
For profiles of this and other water-efficient grasses, see BBG's handbook
Easy Lawns.



Supplier Information

Most good local home-improvement stores and garden centers carry a range
of products that can help you conserve water. Another retail source is the
Gardener's Supply Company (128 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401;
800-427-3363; www.gardeners.com), which sells soaker hoses,
drip-irrigation systems, root-zone watering devices, rain barrels,
water-efficient planters, and hydrogel. M.K. Rittenhouse & Sons (1402
Fourth Avenue, St. Catherines, ON L2R6PQ, Canada; 877-488-1914;
www.rittenhouse.ca) offers many of the same products plus a rain-sensitive
sprinkler system. Home Harvest Garden Supply, Inc. (3807 Bank Street,
Baltimore, MD 21224; 800-348-4769; www.homeharvest.com) is an online
company that sells drip-irrigation systems, watering cans, and precision
hose nozzles. Agrosoke International (1004 N. Bowen, Arlington, TX 76012;
800-880-2476; www.agrosoke.com) manufactures the hydrogel Agrosoke™.

For more drought information, visit BBG's Gardener's Resource Center or
the Drought Response section of our web site.



Drought-Tolerant Plants
Deciduous Trees

· Amelanchier arborea, Shadbush, Downy serviceberry
· Carpinus caroliniana, American hornbeam
· Carya ovata, Shagbark hickory
· Cotinus obovatus, American smoketree
· Crataegus species, Hawthorns
· Diospyros virginiana, American persimmon
· Halesia carolina, Carolina silverbells
· Liquidambar styraciflua, American sweetgum
· Prunus x cistena, Purpleleaf sand cherry
· Quercus species, Oaks (many species)
· Sassafras albidum, Sassafras
· Tilia species, Lindens

Shrubs

· Aesculus parviflora, Bottlebrush buckeye
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Aronia arbutifolia, A. melanocarpa, Chokeberries
· Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Bluemist', Clandon bluebeard
· Ceanothus americanus, New Jersey tea
· Chaenomeles x superba, Flowering quince
· Cornus racemosa, Gray dogwood
· Corylus americana, American filbert
· Coylus avellana 'Contorta', Harry Lauder's walking stick
· Cotinus coggygria, Smokebush
· Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', Wallflower
· Hamamelis virginiana, Witch-hazel
· Hydrangea paniculata, Panicle hydrangea
· Itea virginica, Virginia sweetspire
· Lavandula angustifolia, Lavender
· Lespedeza thunbergii, Bush clover
· Myrica pensylvanica, Bayberry
· Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage
· Philadelphus coronarius, Mockorange
· Prunus maritima, Beach plum
· Rhus copallinum, Shining sumac
· Rosa rugosa, R. glauca, R. nitida, R. carolina, and other species,
Species roses
· Santolina chamaecyparissus, Lavender cotton
· Symphoricarpos albus, Common snowberry
· Symphoricarpos orbiculatus, Coralberry
· Syringa species, Lilacs
· Vaccinium angustifolium, Lowbush blueberry
· Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood
· Viburnum lentago, Nannyberry

Needled Evergreens

· Abies concolor, White fir
· Cephalotaxus harringtonia, Japanese plum yew
· Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sawara false cypress
· Juniperus species, Junipers (most species)
· Picea species, Spruces (most species)
· Pinus species, Pines (most species)
· Taxus species, Yews (most species)
· Thuja occidentalis, Eastern arborvitae

Broadleaf Evergreens

· Ilex crenata, Japanese holly
· Ilex glabra, Inkberry
· Ilex x meserveae, Meserve holly
· Ilex opaca, American holly
· Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon grape

Vines

· Aristolochia macrophylla, Dutchman's pipe
· Bougainvillea species, Bougainvilleas
· Campsis radicans, Trumpet creeper
· Clematis montana, Anemone clematis
· Clematis terniflora, Sweet autumn clematis
· Ipomoea tricolor, Morning glory
· Lonicera sempervirens, Trumpet honeysuckle
· Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Virginia creeper
· Plumbago auriculata, Cape leadwort
· Wisteria frutescens, American wisteria
Groundcovers

· Ajuga reptans, Carpet bugleweed
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Bergenia cordifolia, Bergenia
· Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-in-summer
· Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Ceratostigma
· Epimedium species, Barrenworts
· Juniperus horizontalis, Creeping juniper
· Liriope spicata, Lilyturf
· Pachysandra procumbens, Allegheny spurge
Paxistima canbyi, Cliff green
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Thymus species, Thymes

Perennials

· Achillea cultivars, Garden yarrow
· Agastache foeniculum, Anise hyssop
· Agastache cultivars, Hyssops
· Amsonia hubrichtii, Bluestar
· Anemone species, Anemones
· Arabis procurrens, A. alpina, Rock cresses
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly weed
· Aster species, Asters (many species)
· Baptisia australis, False blue indigo
· Chrysanthemum cultivars, Chrysanthemums
· Coreopsis species, Coreopsis
· Dianthus species, Pinks
· Diascia rigescens, D. barberae cultivars, Diascias
· Dicentra chrysantha, Golden eardrops
· Echinacea purpurea, Purple coneflower
· Echinops bannaticus, Globe thistle
· Eryngium bourgatii, Sea holly
· Euphorbia species, Euphorbias
· Gaillardia species, Blanket flowers
· Gaura lindheimeri, Gaura
· Hemerocallis species, Daylilies
· Iberis sempervirens, Candytuft
· Kniphofia cultivars, Torch flowers, red-hot pokers
· Liatris species, Blazing stars, gayfeathers
· Lychnis coronaria, Rose campion
· Nepeta species, Catmints
· Oenothera species, Evening primroses
· Origanum laevigatum, Ornamental and culinary oregano cultivars
· Papaver species, Poppies
· Penstemon species, Penstemons, beard-tongues
· Phlox subulata, Woodland phlox
· Physostegia virginiana, Obedient plant
· Pulsatilla vulgaris, Pasque flower
· Rudbeckia species, Black-eyed Susans
· Salvia species, Sages
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Sempervivuns tectorum, Hens and chicks
· Sisyrnchium angustifolium, Blue-eyed grass
· Stachys byzantina, Lamb's ear
· Thymus species, Thymes
· Verbascum bombyciferum and V. chaixii cultivars, Mulleins
· Yucca species, Yuccas

Bulbs and Tuberous Plants

· Agapanthus cultivars, Agapanthus
· Allium caeruleum, A. sphaerocephalum, and other allium cultivars,
Ornamental onions
· Crocosmia cultivars, Montbretias
· Fritillaria species, Fritillaries
· Nectaroscordum siculum, Nectaroscordum
· Tulbaghia violacea, Society garlic

Annuals

· Calendula officinalis, Pot marigold
· Capsicum species, Ornamental peppers
· Celosia cristata, Cockscomb
· Eschscholzia californica, California poppy
· Felicia amelloides, Blue marguerite
· Gazania rigens, Gazania
· Helianthus annuus, Sunflower
· Helichrysum bracteatum, Strawflower
· Nigella damascena, Love-in-a-mist
· Papaver cultivars, Annual poppies
· Salvia species, Annual salvias
· Zinnia angustifolia, Zinnia

Ornamental Grasses

· Calamagrostis x acutiflora, Feather reed grass
· Festuca glauca, Blue fescue
· Helicotrichon sempervirens, Blue oat grass
· Panicum virgatum, Switch grass
· Pennisetum species, Fountain grasses
· Schizachyrium scoparium, Little bluestem
· Sorgastrum nutans, Indian grass




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Director of Publishing Janet Marinelli is editor
of BBG's renowned series of quarterly gardening handbooks and the author
of Your Natural Home and The Naturally Elegant Home. Janet is a champion
of the gardener's role in the preservation of the planet, a philosophy
that informs her P&G News column, "Down to Earth." It's a philosophy that
also serves as the bedrock for her latest book, Stalking the Wild
Amaranth: Gardening in the Age of Extinction. In Stalking the Wild
Amaranth, Janet tells of her quest for a landscape art that protects
disappearing species, both flora and fauna. It's a gardening journey
marked by humor—ecologically sensitive gardening needn't be a dreary
affair, Janet insists. "We can do our part," she says, "and still have
flair and fun."

Niall Dunne is associate editior of Plants & Gardens News.

Drought Tolerance—Picking Plants that Consume Less Water
Plants & Gardens News Volume 14, Number 4 | Fall 1999

by Patricia M. Jonas

It's October, and the breezes have blown every cloud toward the ocean,
leaving the blue sky marked only by a hawk circling. The clear light is
perfect for evaluating a garden. This year, properly chastened by five of
the driest months on record sandwiched between a wet March and even wetter
September, I stand over beds and containers with notebook in hand and
discerning eyes. Hundreds of bees are having their last great feast on
airy drifts of asters and dissolute clumps of Japanese anemones. With the
temperature brushing 70 degrees, it could be easy to forget just how
punishing the summer was, and how watering absorbed my hours as
relentlessly as the soil absorbed water. But I don't forget.

The notebook keeps me focused. I divide a page into two columns with the
headings "IN" and "OUT." To make it into the first column, a plant has to
have done more than hang on through the drought; and it has to have shown
resilience under the hammering of spring and fall rains. I am ready to be
ruthless. Well, at least unsentimental.

I garden in containers on a roof in Manhattan, and even with an average
rainfall of 40 inches a year, all of my plants need supplemental water
during the summer. The question of how much is one I too often unwisely
ignore if a plant seduces me. Worse, I sometimes push a plant's winsome
adaptability to a wide range of soil and moisture conditions in the wrong
direction.

For example, I had chosen the very ornamental highbush blueberry
(Vaccinium corymbosum) over lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium),
which is more drought tolerant but has a somewhat scraggly habit more
suited to shrublands and forests than to containers. Adapting to sometimes
drier than ideal soil, the highbush blueberry flourished until I
transplanted it into a container with a fragrant white form of thirsty
swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), which begins blooming after the
white urn-shaped flowers of the blueberry have fallen and are giving way
to fruit. This sensually pleasing association worked for several years,
but last summer it was so hot and dry that I couldn't satisfy the water
needs of either the fiercely competitive milkweed or the shallow-rooted
blueberry. Since the blueberry would have done just fine with a more
generous partner, I've taken its side in the divorce, and the milkweed is
OUT.

Seven Habits for Highly Effective Gardens
When There Is Drought and When There is Not

1. Divide your garden into zones and design for microclimates.
2. Choose water-frugal plants and group together those with similar needs.

3. Know the soil. Many drought-tolerant plants will fare well in rich and
moisture-retentive soil; but others prefer low fertility and require very
sharp drainage.
4. Mulch.
5. Minimize fertilizer use (fertilizers require supplemental irrigation).
6. Weed to reduce competition for water and help maintain healthy,
pest-free plants.
7. Water deeply and less frequently, but don't waste water in run-off.


In order to conserve natural resources and better balance the demands of
my garden with the pleasure it returns, I've resolved to grow plants that
can handle environmental extremes with less intervention on my part. There
are two questions I ask myself: Which plants are such misguided choices
that the charms they flaunt happily in other settings are displayed only
grudgingly in my garden? Which associations would squander less energy and
capitalize on plant adaptability to less than perfect conditions?

My astilbes are obvious bad choices since they always require coddling --
even during summers of what used to be "normal" rainfall. Their leaves
crisp the moment the soil dries out even a little, and their panicles (or
branching clusters of flowers) rarely remain standing long enough to fade
to lovely browns in autumn. Next spring these plants would no doubt unfurl
their handsome leaves and send up sprightly panicles of rosy pink and
white flowers, but now they are tattered and completely unsightly. OUT.

Planted nearby is black cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), reputed to be
drought tolerant when established. My clump is almost ten years old, and
although shaded from afternoon sun, its foliage is scorched by heat in the
harshest summers. In a summer like the one past, even its four-foot
candelabras humming with bees become too unsightly to leave up. The lesson
here is that drought tolerance does not equal heat tolerance; some plants
are not equipped to handle both water privation and very high
temperatures. Even though I've grown black cohosh in every garden I've had
for more than 20 years, it's OUT of this one.

On the other hand, in this same bed, clumps of variegated Japanese
solomon's seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'Variegatum') and Japanese anemone
(Anemone x hybrida 'Honorine Jobert') flourish just as well with less
water, and are discouraged from colonizing as vigorously as they would in
a consistently moist soil. IN.

Creating a water-conscious garden does not mean banishing roses, but
removing a rose in this same bed that I've designated a
moderate-to-low-water-usage zone allows a seven son flower (Heptacodium
miconioides) more room to live up to its reputation for drought tolerance.
IN. It's a small tree with tan, peeling bark and exceptionally fragrant
white flowers whose nectar seems to have a narcotic effect on bees. In
late summer, the seven son flower settles in comfortably with blue, lilac,
and white asters. In spring, around the tree, the light yellow columbine
Aquilegia canadensis 'Corbett' begins blooming with irises, and will
thrive in drier conditions than its hybrid relatives. IN.

At the dry front of the bed, I think I'll plant prairie smoke (Geum
triflorum), which is a very drought-tolerant ground cover with deeply cut
gray-green foliage that never looks tattered. Knowing nothing about
prairie smoke, but intrigued by its name, I first planted it almost 20
years ago after a trip to a local native plant nursery near Chicago. I was
rewarded in even the driest years by delicate maroon flowers followed by
the showy plumes that give the plant its common name. IN.

Knautia macedonica and clove-scented pinks work fine with lady's mantle
and Rosa 'Abraham Darby' in a long, deep container of moisture-retentive
soil, with plenty of compost and moderate water use, but they're better
suited to drier conditions than either rose or lady's mantle. Pinks, with
their gray-blue foliage, will also flourish in a very lean, gritty soil,
so I'll move them and some of the Knautia to a less rich neighborhood.
I'll leave some burgundy pincushions of the Knautia to sprawl over the
sides of the box along with feathery Lotus berthelotti (a tender plant),
and move in Allium cernuum with its nodding heads of pink flowers.

Many roses are tough and do have a place in the water-efficient mixed
border. A surprising number will tolerate drought when established: Think
of all the cemetery roses that have flourished for years with little care,
and the thickets of Rosa carolina and R. rugosa on beach dunes. Rugosa
roses like 'Sarah Van Fleet' and 'Blanc Double de Coubert' have proven
themselves in adverse conditions. The Heritage Rose Foundation recently
polled its members for roses that performed well during 1999's calamitous
weather. Look for the results in their newsletter (write to The Heritage
Rose Foundation, 1512 Gorman Street, Raleigh, NC 27606) or on their
website (http://members.aol.com/Rosefoun/hrf.htm).

Further Reading
The following volumes offer additional tips on climate-conscious
gardening. But keep in mind that the very qualities that help plants adapt
to extreme conditions also make some of them invasive. Avoid using
invasives in your garden, even if they are included in published plant
lists.

The Dry Garden, by Beth Chatto. Sagapress. 1996. ISBN 0-898-31047-4

Taylor's Guide to Watersaving Gardening, Norman Taylor, Houghton Mifflin.
1990. ISBN 0-395-54422-X

The Undaunted Garden: Planting for Weather-Resilient Beauty, by Lauren
Springer, Fulcrum Publishing. 1994. ISBN 1-555-91115-3

For a list of seed and plant suppliers, click here.



To get through winter floods, plants that originate in rocky places need
sharp drainage and a mix of no more than 20 percent soil with the rest
stone and sand. In a sunny, dry bed, I will increase the grit around the
crown of the delicate pasqueflower (Pulsatilla patens) that didn't
tolerate being waterlogged in March and September. When it has sufficient
drainage, it blooms in April along with dwarf Iris pumila and species
tulips. IN. I'll also move in variegated Sedum kamtschaticum and
purple-stemmed Sedum 'Vera Jameson'. The pasqueflower's translucent dusky
violet petals and feathery seed heads and the bright countenance of the
tulips will provide contrast to the sedum's waxy flesh.

All summer in this low-water section of the garden, blowzy white flowers
of Gaura lindheimeri bloom above common culinary salvia (Salvia
officinalis 'Purpurascens') and gray-leafed lavender cotton (Santolina
chamaecyparissus), clipped to maintain a dense shape. Lean, pale,
steel-blue switch grass (Panicum virgatum 'Heavy Metal') is lit by
afternoon sun and provides a backdrop for Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', whose
flowers of rich amethyst are set off perfectly by velvety gray-green
leaves. IN.

In a sun-drenched, moderate-to-low-water-use container, Baptisia alba --
its creamy white flowers followed by ornamental black seed pods -- is
planted with velvety, green-gray leafed mountain mint (Pycnanthemum
muticum) and earth-colored yarrows. Tender Salvia darcyi and Agastache
'Firebird' add bright color to the mix all season. And there is tall ferny
bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) with its self-seeded next generation
taking root around it. Ah, all IN.

With the fennel, I won't need to shift anything -- just pull out the young
seedlings and make salad. But there is prodigious shifting and carrying of
perennials to be done about the rest of the garden. Even for autumn, these
are grand plans. My list of spring planting ideas will surely grow as I
pore over catalogs this winter -- as will, I trust, my resolve to attune
my garden more wisely with its climate.

Seed & Plant Suppliers

Brent and Becky's Bulbs
7463 Heath Trail
Gloucester, VA USA 23061
Telephone: 877-661-2852
Fax: 804-693-9436
http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com

Fairweather Gardens ($3.00)
P.O. Box 330
Greenwich, NJ USA 08323
Telephone: 856-451-6261
Fax: 856-451-0303

Fieldstone Gardens, Inc. ($2.50)
620 Quaker Lane
Vassalboro, ME USA 04989-9713
Telephone: 207-923-3836
Fax: 207-923-3836
http://www.fieldstonegardens.com

Fragrant Path ($2.00)
P.O. Box 328
Fort Calhoun, NE USA 68023

Heronswood Nursery Ltd. ($5.00)
7530 NE 288th Street
Kingston, WA USA 98346-9502
Telephone: 360-297-4172
Fax: 360-297-8321
http://www.heronswood.com

Plants of the Southwest ($3.50)
Aqua Fria, Rt. 6, Box 11A
Santa Fe, NM USA 87501
Telephone: 800-788-7333
Fax: 505-438-8800
http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com

Prairie Nursery
P.O. Box 306
Westfield, WI USA 53964
Telephone: 800-476-9453
Fax: 608-296-2741
http://www.prairienursery.com

We-Du Nurseries ($2.00)
Route 5, Box 724
Marion, NC USA 28752-9338
Telephone: 828-738-8300
Fax: 828-738-8131
http://www.we-du.com/

Windrose ($3.00)
1093 Mill Road
Pen Argyl, PA USA 18072-9670
Telephone: 610-588-1037
Fax: 610-599-0968
http://www.windrosenursery.com

Richters
Goodwood
Ontario L0C 1A0, Canada
Telephone: 905-640-6677
Fax: 905-640-6641
http://www.richters.com

Digging Dog Nursery
P.O. Box 471
Albion, CA USA 95410
Telephone: 707-937-1130
Fax: 707-937-2480

Forestfarm ($4.00)
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR USA 97544-9599
Telephone: 541-846-7269
Fax: 541-846-6963
http://www.forestfarm.com


Prairie Ridge Nursery
9738 Overland Rd.
Mt. Horeb, WI USA 53572-2832
Telephone: 608-437-5245
Fax: 608-437-8982

Shady Acres Herb Farm ($3.00)
7815 Highway 212
Chaska, MN USA 55318
Telephone: 612-466-3391
Fax: 612-466-4739
http://www.shadyacres.com

Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery ($3.00)
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR USA 97501-1538
Telephone: 541-772-6846
Fax: 541-772-4917
http://www.wave.net/upg/srpn

Thompson & Morgan
P.O. Box 1308
Jackson, NJ USA 08527-0308
Telephone: 800-274-7333
Fax: 888-466-4769
http://www.thompson-morgan.com


Antique Rose Emporium ($5.00)
9300 Lueckemeyer Road
Brenham, TX USA 77833-6453
Telephone: 800-441-0002
Fax: 409-836-0928

David Austin Roses Limited ($5.00)
15393 Highway 64 West
Tyler, TX USA 75704
Telephone: 903-526-1800
Fax: op3-526-1900
http://www.davidaustinroses.com

Roseraie at Bayfields
P.O. Box R
Waldoboro, ME USA 04572-0919
Telephone: 207-832-6330
Fax: 800-933-4508
http://www.roseraie.com

Arborvillage ($1.00)
P.O. Box 227
Holt, MO USA 64048
Telephone: 816-264-3911
Fax: 816-264-3760

Eastern Plant Specialties ($3.00)
Box 226
Georgetown, ME USA 04548
Telephone: 732-382-2508
Fax: 732-382-2508
http://www.easternplant.com

High Country Gardens
2902 Rufina Street
Santa Fe, NM USA 87505-2929
Telephone: 800-925-9387
Fax: 800-925-0097
http://www.highcountrygardens.com

Plant Delights Nursery, Inc.
9241 Sauls Road -Tony & Michelle Avent
Raleigh, NC USA 27603
Telephone: 919-772-4794
Fax: 919-662-0370
http://www.plantdelights.com

Niche Gardens (Spr.-$3.00)
1111 Dawson Road
Chapel Hill, NC USA 27516
Telephone: 919-967-0078
Fax: 919-967-4026
http://www.nichegdn.com

----------------------------------------
As director of Library Services at BBG, Patricia M. Jonas always has her
hands full answering questions from the public about plants, horticulture,
and landscape design.









Ten Tips For Maintaining Proper Hydration
Ten Tips For Maintaining Proper Hydration

The Nutrition Information Center at the New York Hospital, Cornell Medical
Center offers the following tips for maintaining proper hydration:

Follow conventional wisdom—drink at least eight, eight-ounce servings of
water each day. The more time you spend outside, the more water you need
to replenish lost fluids.

Don't wait until you're thirsty to drink water. By the time you feel
thirsty, you probably have already lost two or more cups of your total
body water.
Drink plenty of water throughout the day. Convenience is a must, so carry
a bottle of water with you as you commute to work, run errands or enjoy
the day at the beach.
Don't substitute caffeinated coffees, teas and sodas for water. Caffeine
acts as a diuretic, causing you to lose water through increased urination.
Alcoholic beverages have a similar effect.
Keep a bottle of water on your desk if finding time to drink water is a
problem. Or, visit the office water cooler and take water break rather
than a coffee break.
Once you start exercising, don't stop drinking. Keep a bottle of water
with you and take frequent water breaks.
Don't underestimate the amount of fluids lost from perspiration. You need
to drink two cups of water for each pound lost following a workout.
Start and end your day with a serving of water. Your body loses water
while you sleep. So drink a serving before bed and again when you wake up.

Don't forget that common maladies such as colds and the flu can frequently
lead to dehydration. Keep a large bottle of water next to your bed so you
can sip it throughout the day without having to get up.
Remember that when it's warm outside, cold water—not carbonated soft
drinks or sport drinks—is the best fluid for keeping hydrated. Cool water
is absorbed much more quickly than warm fluids and may have a positive
effect on cooling off your overheated body.

NUTRITION 101: Water
Sixth in a series of six nutrition primers
The biggest component of the human body, water is the most indispensable
nutrient. A complete lack of fluids will result in death within a few
days. In the body, water transports essential cargo - nutrients and oxygen
- to even the most remote body locations, even as it carries out and
excretes waste products. Body water protects organs, lubricates joints,
regulates temperature and provides the backdrop for the body's many
chemical reactions.

A minimum of two quarts of fluid are recommended daily. Fluid sources
include many foods (e.g. crunchy fruits and veggies and "liquid" foods
such as soup or pudding) as well as water, milk, 100% fruit juice and
other beverages. (Caffeine-containing beverages and alcohol actually
promote fluid loss through their diuretic action). It's important to drink
regularly and not rely solely on the thirst mechanism. Thirst is not
always a good indicator of fluid need, especially when an individual has
been exercising or working in a warm environment.

Hard water, found in shallow ground, is better for health and provides
small amounts of calcium and magnesium. Soft water, which comes from deep
wells or artificial softeners, is not a good choice for drinking water.
Soft water leaches lead, cadmium and other contaminants from pipes and is
a source of sodium.

The younger the child, the more critical the need for fluids. Infants,
with 75% of their body weight as water, need the most fluid relative to
their body size. One reason is that the kidneys of infants and young
children have not developed the capacity to quickly adjust to extremes in
body water. It's no coincidence that breast milk, a newborn's sole food,
is packaged in a liquid form.

Under normal, room-temperature conditions, a 22 pound one year-old needs
about 4 1/2 cups of fluid daily, a 44 pound preschooler requires between
6-7 cups daily, while a 70 pound school-aged child requires 7-8 cups fluid
each day. Children should be offered fluids often, since the thirst
mechanism doesn't kick in until a child is already mildly dehydrated.

Keep in mind that these figures are averages and an individual child's
fluid mileage is certain to vary. Intestinal illness (vomiting and
diarrhea), fever, heat stress or physical activity all result in a loss of
liquids. Dehydration among young children can quickly turn serious so it's
important that parents are aware of the early signs of fluid loss,
including fewer diapers or infrequent urination, dark, concentrated urine
and a tongue which appears "coated" rather than wet looking. As
dehydration progresses, the eyes may appear sunken, and a child may feel
nauseous, experience muscle cramps and pain or complain of clammy skin and
a throbbing heart. At this stage, immediate medical attention is
necessary.
"Thirst is not always a good indicator of fluid need, especially when an
individual has been exercising or working in a warm environment."


State and National Drought Information
Department of Environmental Protection/NYC Water Use Restriction
National Drought Mitigation Center
Drought Monitor Map of current national conditions
NYState Dept. of Environmental Conservation
NYS Drought Regions







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